About Murcia

Murcia is a smallish coastal region in the southeast corner of Spain, forming with Valencia what is still known as the 'Levant'. In the fertile valley of the river Segura, which crosses the region, there is a huerta similar to Valencia's, with citrus groves, rice paddies, palms and cultivation of a rich variety of vegetables. Further north, around the town of Jumilla, there are extensive vineyards, while around the port of Cartagena there is mining (lead, iron and zinc), and a big oil refinery. Tourist development is mostly around the Mar Menor, a huge saltwater lagoon enclosed by a spit of sand, and at Mazarron, but there's nothing on the scale seen just up the coast in Alicante province.

Although the region became part of Castile more than two centuries before neighboring Andalucia, a large Arab population remained until the early part of the seventeenth century, when they were finally expelled. Murcian culture is therefore a mixture of Castilian and Arab elements, and the language too is Castilian with the odd dialect word or pronunciation derived from Arabic. There is no separate language as in Valencia. A southern exuberance is definitely evident in the region, but somehow and perhaps this is due to the sobering Castilian influence Murcia seems overshadowed by the enormous vitality of its neighbors Valencia and Andalucia.

Murcia. The capital of the one province region, and a city of over a quarter of a million A cluster of old streets expands out into a more modern area of wide avenues, producing quite an attractive if rather stolid city. The cathedral facade is acclaimed as one of the most brilliant examples of Spanish baroque, although the building itself incorporates a mixture of styles from medial' to churrigueresque. Cartagena. An ancient settlement, which takes its name from the time it Was under Carthaginian occupation. Now an important naval base, port and industrial centre Cabo de Palos. Tasteful resort stretching out along the sand bar (La Manga) enclosing the Mar Menor.
Puerto de Mazarron. New development of villas and apartments. Aguilas. Beach and more tourist development. Lorca. Ancient town of historical importance, full of character and a centre for the southwest of the region.

Navarra

The dancing kept up, the drinking kept up, the noise went on. The things that happened could only have happened during a fiesta. Everything became quite unreal finally and it seemed as though nothing could have any consequences. It seemed out of place to think of consequences dur-ing the fiesta. All during the fiesta you had the feeling, even when it was quiet, that you had to shout any remark to make it heard. It was the same feeling about any action. It was a fiesta and it went on for seven days.

Navarra (Navarre) lies at the western end of the Pyrenees, and stretches down to the Ebro Valley, which marks its border with La Rioja to the south. It comprises a single province, administered from the city of Pamplona, and is a small but varied region, a sort of transitionary zone between the Basque country and mainstream northern Spain, between well watered mountains and arid plain.

Two versions of its history exist the Basque version, which concen¬trates on Navarre's historical links with Euskadi, and the official Spanish version, stressing Navarre's role in creating a unified Spain, and its own regional distinctness within that. There is no doubt, however, that Navarre was one of the first Christian kingdoms to emerge after the Moorish oc¬cupation of the Peninsula. Early in their history the navarros, rebelling against the interference of the powerful Frankish King Charlemagne in their affairs, forced him to retreat to his own side of the Pyrenees. The famous defeat they inflicted on him at Roncesvalles is recorded in the French epic poem, The Song of Roland.

The kingdom grew to include what are now parts of France, Aragon and La Rioja, reaching its height under the powerful and astute King Sancho, early in the eleventh century. During the Middle Ages the Pyrenean pass of Roncesvalles was a key communications link with the rest of Europe. Navarre was the first place in the Peninsula to feel the rejuvenating influence on the culture, the language and on religion of the reform¬ing Benedictine monks from Cluny in France, who built great abbeys such as that of San Salvador de Leyre. Pilgrims too passed through on their way to Santiago (see Galicia), bringing Navarre into contact with currents of thought from all over Europe.

For over three centuries, Navarre continued to look towards France and away from medieval Spain, as its throne was occupied by French dynasties, until it finally became liked with Castile in 1512. As in the case of the Basque Country, the umon was based on espect and observance of Navarre's traditional fueros, and the two regions thus had a parallel relationship with Castile for many centuries.

When the system of fueros came under threat from a centralizing liberal regime in Madrid, the reactionary Carlist movement found strong support amongst the rural, conservative and strongly Catholic populations of northern Spain. However, after the Carlist Wars (1833-1839 and 1872-1875), whereas in the Basque Country and Cataluña Carlism dis¬solved into the respective nationalist movements, in Navarre, which was economically backward and still predominantly rural, it remained strong, although something of an anachronism. Thus, when Franco initiated the rebellion against the Republican government in 1936, Carlist supporters in Navarre led a popular uprising in support of him the only place in Spain where this happened.

After the Civil War, Franco attempted to drive a final wedge between Navarre and the Basque Country by rewarding Navarre with fueros, while confiscating those of the Basques. Today Navarre is vociferously claimed as part of Euskadi by the Basques, and there is a noticeable split between navarros who identify with Basque culture (especially those from the mountain districts to the west, where Euskera is commonly spoken), and those who don't. (Navarre to the Basques is Nafarroa, and Pamplona is Iruiiea or Iruiia.)

They are a vigorous and idealistic people, perhaps more expansive than the Basques, who welcome strangers warmly, especially during the world famous San Fer¬mines Olite. Known as the 'gothic town' a reference to its many ancient buildings, including the former fortress castle of the Kings of Navarre, now a parador. Monasterio de Leyre.

Important monastery in a stunning position overlooking the Yesa reservoir  The eleventh century crypt is reckoned to be the most important piece of Romanesque architecture in Spain. Castillo de Javier. Castle built around the birthplace and home of St Francis Xavier (San Francisco Javier), who is supposed to have converted two million Buddhists to Christianity. Sangiiesa. Ancient town on the river Aragon.

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Adrian vultur writes for Things to do in Spain

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