Visiting Gondar Ethiopia

In the northwest of Ethiopia, near the shores of Lake Tana, lies the fortress city of Gondar Holiday Crash pads spain , the ancient capital of Ethiopia. Until the 16th century, the Ethiopian emperors led a nomadic lifestyle, living in temporary camps as they moved around their realms. Beginning with Emperor Minas in 1559, they began spending the rainy season near Lake Tana each year, often at the same site.

The encampments they created flourished as cities for a short time, including Emfraz, Ayba, Gorgora and Dankaz. Gondar was founded by Emperor Fasilides in about 1635. Legend has it that a buffalo led the Emperor to a pool where a hermit told him he would locate his capital. Fasilides had the pool filled in and built his castle there, the recently restored Fasilides' Palace. With its huge towers and looming battlement walls, it seems as if a piece of medieval Europe has been transported to Ethiopia. Subsequent emperors added to the site, building their various palaces nearby in the Royal Enclosure.

The Royal Enclosure is surrounded by a towering wall 900m C2,953ft) long, and is filled with juniper and wild olive trees. In addition to Fasilides' Palace, it contains the royal archive, Iyasu's Palace, Dawit's Hall, stables, a banqueting hall, Mentewab's Castle, the library, chancellery and many churches. The architecture of these buildings clearly shows Hindu and Arab influences, but was subsequently transformed by the Baroque style brought to Gondar by Jesuit missionaries.

By the Qaha River just beyond the city are Fasilides' Baths. Here there is a formal bathing pool and pavilion, standing above the ground on piers. The pavilion is reached by a stone bridge which could be raised in times of battle. Every year, a ceremony takes place in which the baths are blessed and opened for bathing.

Bahir Dar The lovely, small city of Bahir Dar grew up around a Jesuit settlement on the southern shore of Lake Tana, Ethiopia's largest body of water. As the capital of the Christian Amhara region, the city is expanding rapidly, with government offices, factories and businesses all opening up here. It also has a university, and the number of music clubs and bars in the city reflect the large population of young people.

The backdrop of sparkling blue water with fishermen in papyrus boats, the streets lined with tall palms and jacaranda trees and the gardens rich with pointsettia and hibiscus all combine to give Bahir Dar the feeling of a resort. Indeed many people come here to explore the marvels of Lake Tana, the source of the Blue Nile.

Thirty seven islands dot the surface of the huge, 3,600 sq km (1,390 sq rni), lake, and on twenty nine of them are fantastic monasteries and churches, dating from between the l l th and 16th centuries. Hire a boat for a day's exploration, but beware some sites are forbidden to women. The 14th century Ura Kidane Mehret, on the Zeghe peninsula is marvellous decorated inside and out with frescoes of biblical scenes and containing a number of fabulous illuminated bibles, it is open to all.

Some 30 km (19 m) from Bahir Dar are the startling Blue Nile Falls a magnificent 400 m (1,320 ft) wide cascade of water plunges over a 45 m (148 It) drop into the chasm below, producing thunderous noise and, catching the sunshine, the spray reflects brilliant rainbows of colour. Approaching across a 17th century castellated Portuguese bridge and up a grassy slope, the Falls suddenly appear before you in all their glory.

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